Post 56. Le Havre 2. The 19-Hour Ferry Journey and Our Home Exchange
We travelled with Irish Ferries from Dublin to Cherbourg - a crossing that suits us perfectly: Dublin is only a four-hour drive from home, far easier than trekking all the way down to Rosslare or Cork, and once you reach Cherbourg it's a straightforward two-and-a-half-hour drive to Le Havre.
Having checked into our cabin, we then headed up on deck for a stroll, and before we knew it the engines rumbled to life and we were under way, watching Dublin slowly slip out of sight..
Then it was time to find a table at the front of the ship, settle in with a relaxing drink and enjoy the view. This is always the moment when the holiday begins - that quiet pause before the Irish mobile signal disappears and the world shrinks to the size of the ship.
We had been looking forward to our usual sit-down meal in the Lady Gregory restaurant, which has become a small tradition of ours on the outward journey to France over the past few years. However, after a huge lunch in Dublin with our daughter Anna before we drove to the port, neither of us was remotely hungry enough. So we broke with tradition and opted for French onion soup and a shared cheese plate in Boylan's Brasserie instead - simple, comforting and just enough. This would set the scene for the type of food we would be looking for throughout the week.
We disembarked at 12.30pm French time the next day, hoping to reach Le Havre by around 3pm to pick up the keys.
The drive from Cherbourg to Le Havre was pleasant and uneventful - except, that is, until we reached the toll booth on the Pont de Normandie. Three different bank cards, three failures. The barrier stayed firmly down while a cacophony of horns blared from the irate drivers queuing behind us. In the end, we had to press the assistance button. A man emerged, took pity on us and waved us through for free - a small but satisfying win of €6.10!
I had imagined making a grand entrance into the city: past the Gare, past one of my old schools, along Boulevard de Strasbourg, through the city centre and up to the Ville Haute. Instead, the car's navigation app had other ideas. A major football match was underway at the Stade Océane, and so to avoid the traffic it sent us on a long, winding detour through the back streets to our accommodation. My nostalgic tour would have to wait for another day.
Our Home Exchange
Véronique and João Manuel's detached house was our base for the week.
It was a wonderful space - bright, contemporary and filled with an eclectic mix of modern art, poster art, memorabilia, plants, books and music. Their huge vinyl collection told us instantly that music is central to their lives.
Among the more unusual items was an old barber's chair from Lisbon (one of our hosts is Portuguese), where I lay back and stretched before unpacking the bags, not something I've ever done on arrival anywhere else.
Planning This Series
During the long crossing, I decided to try a new format for this series of posts. Since we would be based in Le Havre for a full week, a day-by-day account didn't feel quite right.
Instead I wanted a series of themed posts - a structured way to explore the city's history, architecture, and personal significance more deeply.
So, somewhere between Dublin and Cherbourg, tapping away on my laptop, with very intermittent internet, I sketched out the following plan:
Post 55. Le Retour: Back after 39 Years
Post 56. The 19-Hour Ferry Journey and Our Home Exchange
Post 57. Le Havre - My Places: Six Addresses That Shaped My Story
Post 58. Plus ça change: Le Havre after nearly 40 years.
Post 59. The Genius of Auguste Perret and Making Concrete Beautful
Post 60. Street Art and Monet@MuMa
Post 61. The Finer Things in Life - Food, Wine and Wine Shopping
Post 62. Day tripping - Honfleur, Étretat and Fécamp
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