25. Budapest Part 3 of 3

One of the very first things I noticed in Budapest was that the buildings were very much cleaner than they looked when I last visited in 1996. My memory from back then is of buildings covered in black grime or soot. They certainly have been busy with the power washers and sand blasters since then! 

While it is no Paris, certain areas and streets do resemble the French capital, particularly along Andrassy ut., where a lot of the embassies are based.

On the walking tour, Robert pointed out a lot of interesting things in Freedom Square / Liberty Square .... and a few uninteresting ones such as a life size statue of a walking Ronald Reagan!

The above photo from the square is of the last remaining Soviet memorial in the city and apparently it is very divisive, with strong arguments being made for its removal or its retention. 

There is also a sculpture (above) that apparently just appeared overnight, no one has ever claimed to be responsible for it, and the government has said it was not of their doing. It commemorates those lost during the Soviet and communist regimes. This is a controversial monument since some believe it ignores the role of the Hungarian government in cooperating with the Germans. 

In front is a makeshift memorial honoring the memory of Hungarian Jews and others. 

The Danube was at a very high level due to the recent heavy rains and was rising rapidly. Below, the flood waters can be seen with this road already submerged. Many tram lines along the river, including the famous Tram No 2 line were closed, which was a shame as the route is highly recommended as a cheap way to see the city.

I loved the House of Terror Museum. Once the headquarters of the State Protection Authority (similar to the Soviet Union's KGB), the building was where brutal interrogations and the torturing of countless political activists and dissidents took place.  

It explains Hungary's post-World War II years leading up to the 1953 uprising against it Soviet-controlled puppet government. It is well put together and informative, but the audio guides have seen better days, the sound quality was not great. No photos were allowed and given the formidable looking staff, I didn't sneak any! The 4-minute lift bringing you down to the cells is an experience not for the faint-hearted!

I read lots of reviews before deciding to see The World of Banksy. Obviously it doesn’t contain any original works, but the high quality of the photography and the large-scale of the exhibits made it seem like they were the real deal and how else could you see so many of his works in one place, even if they are prints.

There must have been over fifty prints and videos on display, details of their location were provided and the background explained. 

After a long day on my feet, a trip to one of Budapest's famous thermal spas was what the doctor ordered. I had planned to return to the Gellert Baths on the Buda side of the river as Tricia and I had spent an afternoon there in 1996, however the cost was over €30 and I felt that it was too expensive. It had obviously turned into a tourist trap over the past three decades.

Instead I found Rudas Turkish Baths (above) close by for half the cost. It contains 5 pools with different temperatures and minerals. The mineral content of the water is explained clearly. The sulphuric smell was a little hard to get used to but overall the experience was very relaxing and my skin felt like silk afterwards. Many locals were drinking the water from fountains, I tried it but it wasn't very pleasant! Photography was not allowed inside.

My host David recommended a restaurant called Trofea Grill that offered a wide range of Hungarian foods. 

The menu was vast, not only was there such a huge choice, but you could eat as much as you wanted with over 100 starters, soup, salads, main dishes, cheese plates and desserts. In addition there were unlimited local beers and wines - a foodie's dream! A few photos  ....

I spent an amazing 90 minutes there and didn’t even manage to try any cheeses or desserts. Mmmm, my kind of heaven!

Final thoughts

My overall impression of Budapest was positive. It is a big bustling spread out city (probably because of the height restriction in the centre). It looked very westernised compared to 1996 and I saw little evidence of homelessness or poverty on the streets. The transport systems are very efficient, but they are a little confusing to use, even with the BudapestGo app - I did have to resort to Google Maps at times. The final photo below was taken from just outside the Rudas Baths as I waited for a tram to return to the apartment. 

Despite the oft-repeated claim that the citizens are dour and unfriendly, I didn’t encounter any of this and all the people I met were friendly and welcoming. I did expect more of the younger people to have English though, it surprised me that about half of those I spoke to just shrugged their heads and walked off.