25. Budapest, Hungary Part 3

I'd noticed it on my first morning, but it kept catching my eye everywhere I went: the buildings were far cleaner than I remembered from my last visit in 1996, when everything seemed coated in black grime. Someone's clearly been busy with the power washers and sandblasters since then.

While it is no Paris (one of my favourite cities), certain areas and streets do resemble the French capital, particularly along Andrassy ut., where a cluster of embassies are located.

On the walking tour, Robert pointed out a lot of interesting things in Freedom Square / Liberty Square .... and a few fascinating ones such as a life size statue of Ronald Reagan which honours the former U.S. president for his pivotal role in ending the Cold War and dismantling Soviet influence in Eastern Europe! Intriguingly, this statue, which was unveiled in 2011 depicts Reagan walking mid-stride toward the U.S. Embassy, directly facing a controversial World War II monument dedicated to fallen Soviet soldiers.

The above photo from the square is of the Soviet memorial referred to above. It is the last Soviet memorial in the city and apparently it is very divisive, with strong arguments being made on both sides for its removal or its retention. 

Close by stands a very different piece: a sculpture that simply appeared overnight, with no one ever claiming responsibility and the government denying any involvement. It commemorates those lost under Soviet and communist rule, though it's controversial in its own right. Critics argue it glosses over Hungary's own cooperation with Nazi Germany. In front of it sits a more makeshift memorial, honouring Hungarian Jews and others lost in the same period. 

The Danube was at a very high level due to the recent heavy rains and was rising rapidly. Below, the flood waters can be seen with this road already submerged. Many tram lines along the river, including the famous Tram No 2 line were closed, which was a shame as the route is highly recommended as a cheap but very scenic way to see the city.

 

 

Museums / Exhibitions

I loved the House of Terror Museum. Once the headquarters of the State Protection Authority (similar to the Soviet Union's KGB), the building was where brutal interrogations and the torturing of countless political activists and dissidents took place.  I loved the clever way that the sunlight shines through the metal artwork on the roof to cast the word "terror" in shadow on the upper walls. It certainly invites the curious visitor to have a closer look. 

The museum explains Hungary's post-World War II years leading up to the 1953 uprising against its Soviet-controlled puppet government. It is well put together and informative, but the audio guides have seen better days, the sound quality was not great. No photos were allowed and given the formidable looking staff, I didn't sneak any! The lift bringing you down to the cells is an experience not for the faint-hearted!

I read lots of reviews before deciding to see The World of Banksy. Obviously it doesn’t contain any original works, but the high quality of the photography and the large-scale of the exhibits made it seem like they were the real deal and how else could you see so many of his works in one place, even if they are reproductions. 

There must have been over fifty prints and videos on display, details of their location were provided and the background explained. I loved it and certainly felt it was worth the entrance fee. The one below was my favourite. 

 

 

Thermal Baths

After a long day on my feet, a trip to one of Budapest's famous thermal spas was what the doctor ordered. I had planned to return to the Gellert Baths on the Buda side of the river as Tricia and I had spent an afternoon there in 1996, however the cost was over €30 and I felt that it was too expensive. It had obviously turned into a tourist trap over the past three decades.

Instead I found Rudas Turkish Baths (above) close by for half the cost. It contains 5 pools with different temperatures and minerals. The mineral content of the water is explained clearly. The sulphuric smell was a little hard to get used to but overall the experience was very relaxing and my skin felt like silk afterwards. Many locals were drinking the water from fountains, I tried it but it wasn't very pleasant to my tastebuds! Photography was not allowed inside.

 

Food and Drink 

My host David highly recommended a restaurant called Trofea Grill that offered a wide range of Hungarian foods and it did not disappoint.

The menu was vast, not only was there such a huge choice, but it was an all-you-can-eat buffet with over 100 starters, soups, salads, mains, cheese plates and desserts - my kind of place! 

 

 

In addition there were unlimited local beers and wines - a foodie's dream! 

 

 

The photos don't really do the place or the food justice as the room was quite dark and I did not want to be using flash. 

I was very surprised that there weren't more tourists inside. I felt like I was the only one. There seemed to be quite a few regulars there and there were at least two family celebrations happening. 

 

I spent an amazing 90 minutes there and didn’t even manage to make it to the cheese or desserts tables. Mmmm, my kind of heaven! I was so grateful to my host David for letting me in on a local secret!

 

Overall Impression

My overall impression of Budapest was positive. It is a big bustling spread out city (probably because of the height restriction in the centre). It looked very westernised compared to 1996 and I saw little evidence of homelessness or poverty on the streets. The transport systems are very efficient, but they are a little confusing to use, even with the BudapestGo app - I did have to resort to Google Maps at times. The final photo below was taken from just outside the Rudas Baths as I waited for a tram to return to the apartment. 

Despite the oft-repeated claim that the citizens are dour and unfriendly, I didn’t encounter any of this and all the people I met were friendly and welcoming. That said, I did expect more of the younger generation to speak English; about half the people I approached just shrugged and walked on - maybe they are just fed up with tourists like me!

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